Black Bear Road Trail Report - not for junk cars and greenhorns

The Infamous Black Bear Road
Contributed by Mark L. Evans

The original Forest Service sign, made famous in song (141k)

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C.W. McCall's hit song "Black Bear Road"

The Black Bear Road (BBR) originates at the top of Red Mountain Pass on State Highway 550 between Silverton, and Ouray. After you reach the summit, start looking for the brown sign (see the photo below.) If you decide to take a trip over the BBR, check with the locals for current conditions. Make sure that you obtain a good topographical map to help in navigating the back country. The BBR is only open for a few short months in the late summer and early fall. Most of the guide books on the area rate this trip as extremely difficult, and not for the novice. The following account is from my first trip in 1989. I have since done the BBR and enjoyed it every time. My last trip down was in 2002. I think the road has grown a few more teeth since my first trip. The switch back area is the same but the upper portion over the pass has gotten a lot more interesting.

Watch for this turn off to Black Bear Road

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I of course decided that I was an expert, and would give the BBR a try. Before starting, I made sure to check with a jeep tour operator in Ouray. He said that I was nuts, and should just go with his tour group. I thought he was just drumming up business so I obtained directions, and prepared to give it my best. The day before my attempt, I had talked with two lovely local ladies about the trip. While in Animas Forks, I happened to speak with these seasoned veterans, who told me the BBR was a piece of cake. They said that all of the hype about the road was for the tourists. They said that it was just a Sunday drive for the locals.

Armed with this information, I ventured off the road at Red Mountain Pass. The BBR can only be traveled one way. Make sure to start on the Red Mountain side or you will have some unhappy fellow off-roaders on your case. The road on the Red Mountain side of the pass was very enjoyable, and presented very little excitement. Once I finally arrived at the summit, in about 45 minutes, I had an enjoyable view of the countryside for several hundred miles around. As I sat at the summit taking in the scenery, an old red jeep pickup climbed up the trail to my location. It was the tour operator who had advised me to avoid the trip. He had a silly grin on his face, and laughed as he walked over to give me his opinion on the subject of descending the BBR.

Suburban full of flat-landers letting someone else do the driving - (actually a good idea)

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Almost to the top!

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View from the top of Black Bear Pass

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View from the top of Black Bear Pass

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That's the way down!

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This mine is a little out of the way - better watch that first step on the way home at night

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View of Telluride from Black Bear Road

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Since I had an expert nearby, I asked if he could make any suggestions. He indicated I would probably make it down in one piece if I followed him, and did as he did. I asked him what I should do if the truck started to get away from me. He told me the best way to stop a run away was to turn into the mountain side, and let the friction of the paint being removed from my truck stop me. I guess it was better than the alternative which was a drop of several hundred feet into the valley below. My guide friend let me know that several times each year several greenhorns left their trusty 4X4s on the trail. After the long walk to town they hired him to retrieve their trucks. He also told me they had only lost seven vehicles over the edge that year but it was still early. Armed with his advice, I wobbled over to my truck to take my place behind him on the descent, hoping that I wouldn't have to junk my car like the other greenhorns had.

On the Black Bear Road a long wheel base truck and switchbacks equals more fun than you can stand!

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As we started down off the summit, I thought the trip would be really easy. The road was not much of a challenge and the scenery was awesome. At one point we came upon an old tramway cable high above us. We stopped to give it a look. A long cable was hanging down from the tramway cable that allowed a person to swing on it. The guide grabbed the cable like any good elementary school student would, and tried it. The cable allowed him to swing way out over the edge of a cliff. I just had to test this toy, and found it really fun. After all of us had swung on the cable, we climbed back into the vehicles for the rest of the trip. That was where things got interesting.

A little farther down the trail the easy stuff came to an end. The first of many switch backs presented itself. The guide got out here and gave me a quick lesson on how to continue. He said they call the first part of the switch backs "The Steps." This is where the trail takes a hard right turn and proceeds down grade at a very steep angle. To make matters worse, it is all on shale rock. If you have ever walked along the edge of a trail made of shale, you know what happens. If you get to close to the edge, it gives way under your feet. It can also under certain condition's start a slide that carries you and all your gear down the side of the mountain.

The Steps at the top of the switch backs

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Following my trusty guide down the Black Bear

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View over the hood -- 1000 feet of air !!!

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One foot narrower than the tires

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I bit the bullet and followed the lead of the jeep guide. Things actually went quite well. I did find it a little disconcerting to see that my tires were wider than the road. As I finished the last of the shale area, I could breath a little easier. I thought the worst part was over. It seemed at this point that all I had to do was negotiate the rest of the switch backs. I am sure this is really easy for those with a short wheel base vehicle. In a long wheel base, full size truck, it gets a little more interesting. You see, the short wheel base vehicles can turn around and continue forward down the switch backs. I on the other hand had to back down a few of them because I could not get turned around. Making a five-hundred point turn while unable to see the edge of the road over your hood can really get the adrenalin flowing.

Ruins of the Black Bear Mill

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Road below the Black Bear Mill

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Meldrum Tunnel

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Farther down the mountain there is a stop that you have to make. It is possible to drive into the base of Bridal Vail Falls about two-thirds of the way down. This is a good point to get out and collect yourself ( and clean out your drawers.) The view is beautiful and the cool mist helps calm your nerves. It also gave me a chance to hear the critic of my attempt at the switch backs. It seems a guy from Nevada had followed me down. He said he had a great video tape that he was going to show to all of his off-road buddies. I don't know if it was a "how-to" or "how-not-to" video.

View of the Power Plant above Bridal Vail Falls

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When you have finally made it into Telluride, you are required to do two things. You must seek out a T-shirt shop and purchase an "I Survived the Black Bear Road" shirt. After this is accomplished, stop for lunch in one of the over priced yuppy hangouts. When you are done here, get out your map and find the Imogene Pass Trail. The best way back to Red Mountain is over Imogene Pass, and you will find it a lot easier on your nerves. The trip takes awhile but the scenery is great. At more than 13,000 feet, the pass provides quite a view.